[Review] Updated Luxe Serum Smackdown

I originally posted this in 2022 and early 2023 as two separate posts, but moving it here as part of my (even larger) Reddit migration. As it was two separate posts, I am editing it to flow better. It's so long...so, so long...

July 2023 Updates

I've been dreading this migration because it's long with a lot of pictures and gifs and probably not a lot of value added to the update since it's only been 4 months since the "temporary conclusion".

I still have the O HUI and while the bottle feels heavy, I can't tell how much of the serum I have left. I have the newer PRO version on its way to me from TesterKorea (they say it's shipped, and their tracking is always wonky so I'm just going to trust that it shows up). I do enjoy it a lot, but I'm more looking forward to trying the Decorte Liposome Advanced Serum one day. It is more expensive than the O HUI, so if I'm not getting a huge benefit of the Decorte over the new O HUI, I might just stick with the O HUI for a while. I say "one day" because I need to finish up the old O HUI first, then I have the new one, and the Sooryehan THE BLACK Serum (that I didn't want) that came when I ordered Essence Moisturizer. So if I want to responsibly test the Decorte, it probably won't be until next year.

I toyed with the idea of having the Sooryehan Serum in the AM to really max out my luxe routine, but realistically, I think it'd just be a waste. I have settled on the idea that my AM serum is just a nice little carrier for my drops of fullerene and I already have serums/essences for that step I'm working through. I had said I was looking forward to the KIKUCO Lotion Serum and the Sooryehan Essence Moisturizer in the AM and it's kind of changed. The KIKUCO is a really good one and done product that I use for using before yoga/working out, but it's not something I love as part of my regular routine. The Essence Moisturizer feels silicony to me (which I hate) and I see no added benefits like I did with the Serum so it's kind of just sitting there on the counter, looking pretty. I'll reach for it if I'm feeling extra dry, but it's been disappointing TBH.

But we're talking about PM serums here! More on my AM step in my routine update whenever I get to it.

I panned the DONGINBI about a week ago and I do find myself missing a "something good but not as much" as the Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Honorstige Serum, especially since Commercial Poem Ferments and I had a brief scare because it was sold out on TesterKorea (it's back! $8 more than what I originally paid for it though. She had the brilliant idea of trying the "lesser" Honorstige Serum so I have ordered that to try). I also inverted the DONGINBI bottle for a full night and nothing came out, which I hope means everything came out - gold star in packaging!

BUT.

The sub has a pretty strict no business interactions rule to maintain organic and independent reviews/suggestions - that's what you're hoping for when you're looking up reviews, right? Brands have been banned because they refused to comply, or they thought they were being "cute". There are brands not shown on the public list that are being watched and guess who's on the list. It shouldn't affect others, but I personally have stopped recommending brands that are on the watch list because it's really fucking annoying when companies don't follow the simple rule of don't fucking talk to us. There's just a feeling to me that if you have to resort to breaking a sub's rules that's been reiterated multiple times and your marketing has to lead the way over your product doing the heavy lifting, there's a lack of confidence in your product/service.

If I'm being nice, there are other brands on the watch list that did worse than they did. I can also understand that DONGINBI is seeing AmorePacific and LG's global-mindedness and likely doesn't have the budget those two have, so they see the sub as a way to get the word out cheaply. But as someone who deals with this mess, I'm now on the fence about this DONGINBI product down the line, I'm at least nixing them from the luxe watery toners that Odile recommended. There are many other brands that haven't broken the rule that likely have products that are just as good, if not better.

On average, I do enjoy marketing, good marketing. Unfortunately, there are so many times nowadays that marketing gets in the way of the product, and it's really frustrating when companies don't understand it.

Luxe Serum Smackdown

Me: late 30s, dehydrated normal to dry skin focusing on anti/well-aging. living in coastal desert climate.

What I’m Looking For

My current PM routine that I absolutely love, nonnegotiable on changing:

• Nacific Fresh Herb Origin Toner
• Sansim Yangmyung Soo Toner
• [MISSING Serum/Essence Step]
•  Nacific Fresh Herb Origin Serum (then gua sha)
• Stratia Liquid Gold (as needed)
• Klairs Midnight Calming Cream (as needed)

It’s like threading a needle: the missing serum has to be the right consistency, while still letting the Nacific Serum sink in and feel pleasant. Some of the luxe skincare items claim to work better together, but what I’m asking for here is very much not that; it must hold up on its own.

Sooryehan THE BLACK Serum 

Sooryehan THE BLACK Serum texture shot

• Consistency: Thick serum. Still runny but with some stickiness to it, like glycerin.
• Fragrance: Mostly nothing. When I put it basically up my nose (for Commercial Poem Ferments) it was just a whisper of a floral scent. However, when I warmed it between my palms for a few seconds, the smell was more evident, but it’s not overpowering at all.
• Feel on Skin: It goes on and sinks in fast so you almost forget you put it on.
• Effectiveness: It kicks in around the 5 min mark, hydrating the skin with a soft glow that lasts into the AM. It seems the longer the wait for the next step, the more intense the glow the next day.
• Repurchase?: No.

Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Honorstige Serum ❤️

Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Honorstige Serum texture shot

• Consistency: THICK. If the Whoo Cheonyuldan is honey, this is caramel candy. It is essentially a medicine balm.
• Fragrance: Hanbang to the extreme. Equivalent of herbal medicine your grandparents have kept (and forgot) for years in their medicine cabinet. And you smell it for maybe an hour.
• Feel on Skin: It's a thick consistency but it goes on very smooth. Very moisturizing, but not suffocating. It is the feeling of a heavy cream I have been hoping for.
• Effectiveness: It could be all the medicine that I’m smelling, but it just feels like this is fixing your skin of everything. As if skin plumping or glow is not it's goal, but it just happens because your skin problems have been solved. It’s a lot.
• Repurchase?: Yes! (samples only) 

The History of Whoo Cheonyuldan Ultimate Regenerative Essence

 

The History of Whoo Cheonyuldan Ultimate Regenerative Essence texture shot 

• Consistency: On the slightly thicker end, like honey.
• Fragrance: More floral-baby powder with a hint of hanbang at the end. It lingers for at least half an hour.
• Feel on Skin: Smooth texture that feels more moisturizing than hydrating on the skin. It does hang around the surface of the skin and on a warmer day, it has felt a little like the Allie UV EX Facial Gel in terms of the enveloping nature of it.
• Effectiveness: Immediate plumping and softening of the skin. Glow that lasts until morning.
• Repurchase?: Probably not.

The History of Whoo Hwanyu Signature Ampoule

 

The History of Whoo Hwanyu Signature Ampoule texture shot  

• Consistency: Looks and feels like a deep amber honey, pleasantly sticky but not tacky.
• Fragrance: It smells like hanbang, but not overpowering. I honestly was craving for more hanbang notes.
• Feel on Skin: It went on the skin easily, just a little tacky on the skin, but ultimately just felt like it was sitting on my skin without sinking in.
• Effectiveness: Nothing. Nothing bad, nothing good. It felt a little moisturizing and I continued to have a skin glow that I expect. But not for this price.
• Repurchase?: No.

O HUI Prime Advancer Ampoule Serum

O HUI Prime Advancer Ampoule Serum texture shot 

• Consistency: Comes out like cloudy glycerin. Based on memory alone, it’s slightly thicker than the Sooryehan THE BLACK Serum, but it’s been a few months. When I compare videos, it seems to be more runny than it. So🤷🏻‍♀️
• Fragrance: Very soft and delicate floral with a hint of pine. It’s very lovely and sophisticated (to borrow Commercial Poem Ferment's description)
• Feel on Skin: Like the Sooryehan Serum, It goes on and sinks in fast so you almost forget you put it on.
• Effectiveness: More moisturizing than the Sooryehan serum and provides the exact glow I want (some glow but not too much)
  
• Repurchase?: Yes. This is my serum of choice.

DONGINBI Red Ginseng Power Repair Concentrated Essence

 DONGINBI Red Ginseng Power Repair Concentrated Essence texture shot 

 

• Consistency: Color is amber, so it again reminds me of honey, but thicker than the other WHOO Essences/Ampoule, less thick than the Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Honorstiege Serum.
• Fragrance: More baby powder than hanbang which is annoying. But it’s not too strong or offensive, especially since it disappears from the skin in a few seconds.
• Feel on Skin:  Goes on very smooth and moisturizing, albeit a little silicony, but not in that mattifying way that I hate. It’s a thick serum.
• Effectiveness: More moisturizing than the O HUI, expected glow. In my mind, it's like Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Honorstiege Lite.
• Repurchase?: Yes, but maybe in about 10 years time. See above.
  

The Journey

I started my haul having already tried the Sooryehan Serum and loved it. This a relatively new serum that has the fancy black exosome from black yeast. And possibly the start of a rebranding. The first time I tried it, I put it on and went about my night and didn’t move onto my next step for 30 min or so. The next day, the GLOW! I was in love. The texture was what I thought I wanted: glyceriny and hydrating, but substantial enough to give me a glow that lasted into the AM. I totally anticipated trying the other serums/essences to scratch my curiosity itch and return to the Sooryehan with a clear head and a happier wallet.

Of the haul (that included a second order of Sooryhan samples), I tried the Sulwhasoo Serum first thinking I’d just blow past it since it couldn’t possibly be worth its outrageous price and call it a day. But from the first use, it was very obviously not a serum to be ignored. They call it a serum, but it’s really a cream. Actually, it’s medicine, not skincare (it is actually skincare though). I felt wrong using it because it was too much – very moisturizing without being overbearing; sticky on the skin if you touch it, but doesn’t feel tacky or uncomfortable; and it just last for hours. I can feel it working while protecting my skin from the elements, but my skin is still breathing and it lets the Nacific serum through somehow. Using it the second night cemented that it’s a different level of skincare for me and I am just not at an age to really appreciate this fully, so I put it aside for just in case purposes.

The Whoo Cheonyuldan Essence was thicker than I’d like and really thought I hated it: it was too moisturizing for what I was looking for. But with continued use, it grew on me. I ended up liking the more moisturizing aspect while it still allowed the Nacific serum to work its magic. The more I used it, the more I realized I might not want the Sooryehan Serum after all. I did use the Sooryehan serum once in a while to see how it’d compare, and it just couldn’t. I was shocked and honestly bummed because I was really hoping to just be validated in choosing the economical-by-comparison Sooryehan Serum with this test and it was proving not to be the case. Days I used it, I ended up missing the moisturization the Whoo Essence offered and honestly the glow I had didn’t seem as glowy as Whoo’s if I didn’t have a long wait time in between.

During this time, I went a trip that required flying and brought a sachet of the Sulwhasoo Serum and used it the night I landed. I was kind of suspecting it might work well in place of a sheetmask (especially in the sample packets) and confirmed it at a later date when I knew I was going to have a long night and used it as a preventative. I did my skincare routine at 11p, went to bed at 4a, woke up at 7a; my skin throughout the next day? Not a single problem; I was glowing, supple, and moisturized despite my tired everything else. In order to justify the purchase of the Sulwhasoo samples (because I cannot afford a full size), I’ve decided it will be replacing two of my now former HG sheet masks (the JMSolution Golden Cocoon that I used when I needed additional moisturization and the Naruko Snail when something was wrong with my skin and I couldn’t explain what). Price per Sulwhasoo sample sachet: $1.33 (not including shipping). Naruko per sheetmask: $2. JMSolution per sheetmask: $2.01.

When I finished the Cheonyuldan Essence, I tried the Yehwadam Heaven Grade Ginseng Serum I got as a sample with my purchase. It was hydrating on the skin, disappearing into the skin and leaving it soft, but glowless. It was forgettable. Except that scent: strong baby powder/floral scent that liiingers. Just awful. I listed it as bonus in the picture because I only had one sample of it so it doesn’t seem fair to stack it up against the others, but no part of me is interested in trying more of this.

I very happily moved onto the Whoo Hwanyu Signature Ampoule, expecting it to be as hanbangy and magical as Sulwhasoo’s and it just…wasn’t. The texture was exactly what I had been hoping for, but it did absolutely nothing for me. It sat on top of my skin feeling like it was doing nothing. It was really perplexing because with the other serums, I could feel moisturizing/hydrating on a deeper level. This was just…there. I did continue to have my expected glow throughout its use though, so there’s that.

Last was the Whoo Hwanyu Imperial Youth Essence and it’s okay. I prefer the smell of it to the Cheonyuldan Essence since it’s more hanbang and less floral and it’s slightly more moisturizing than Cheonyuldan’s. I’m still using it, but I just don’t feel like the texture is right and I just have no interest in this serum because it's more of a light lotion and not what I want. The change in weather is causing my skin to throw some pimples my way (yaay...), so I’ve been bouncing around what I have in my stash doing damage control rather than be focused on this.

Somewhere in the past few days I’ve used my Sooryehan Serum and waited about 4 hours before continuing with the rest of my routine (did half of my PM routine after washing my hair in the afternoon), and the glow the next day was pretty intense. I remembered the very first time I tried it, I left it for 30 min before trying my routine and there was serious glow going on and told Commercial Poem Ferments who tested it and confirmed extra glowy on their end to with a 30 min break in between. And I while I think that’s amazing, I just cannot reliably wait 30 min between this step and my Nacific so it’s just not the right serum for me. I would still recommend it for anyone in their late 20s, early 30s though. I’m just at a point in my skincare journey that I feel like if I buy this now, I’ll be on a serum hunt again in a year.

I previously thought I wanted to keep this step hanbangy, though u/lonleyblep did recommend the O HUI one to me. A few days after I posted my previous review, I put in another order on TesterKorea for more of the Sulwhasoo Timetreasure Honorstiege sachets, saw they had the O HUI sample sachets and threw them in cause…why not. But I didn’t get my order until mid-December due to a mixup, so even though I ordered the O HUI first, I tried the DONGINBI one first.

Based on the texture shots of Odile’s DONGINBI videos, this DONGINBI Concentrated Essence looked like the exact texture I was looking for. I was watching the price on KoreaDepart at the end of last year: it first started off at ~$112, then went up to ~$120. Near the end of November Amazon had it for $132, which would roughly be about the same price and without shipping and the long wait so I pulled the trigger. (It’s now it’s at $182 on KoreaDepart and $220 on Amazon for 50mL.)

I was still using my Whoo Hwanyu Imperial Youth Essence and did compare it a few times and I like this A LOT more. Whereas Whoo felt like a full light lotion, this feels like a thick serum. It’s probably mental though, as the finish for both is pretty occlusive. But the Whoo one is opaque compared to this glowy goodness. In terms of results, all the luxe serums gave me an expected glow. My favorite type of glow is just enough, not too bright (looking at you, 4-hours-after-Sooryehan-Serum), so this is the minimum expectation.

Around this time I also ran out of my NACIFIC Fresh Herb Origin Serum, which I do rely on a lot to both hydrate and moisturize my skin (it’s a biphase serum), so while I was waiting for the NACIFIC haul, the DONGINBI powered through. I really didn’t need the NACIFIC serum. In fact, despite it being winter, I could easily end my routine with the DONGINBI and then the Stratia Liquid Gold and call it a night, which is really impressive for my dry skin.

I got my O HUI sample sachets before my NACIFIC serum arrived and um…I was scared. Because while I loved everything about the serum on its own, it was looking like the O HUI wasn’t moisturizing enough and I’d need to go with the gradually-increasing-in-price DONGINBI. However when the NACIFIC serum came and I started using it in my PM routine again, everything got confused. Layering the NACIFIC serum on top of the DONGINBI felt weird because of the silicony finish of the DONGINBI, so I’ve switched the steps when using the DONGINBI and use the NACIFIC serum (and guasha) before the DONGINBI. I don’t love doing this just because it slightly throws me off, but the main issue is that it’s just more moisturization than I really need for this step at this point in my life. But the O HUI? It’s perfect.

So yes, I found my perfect moisturizing serum step in the O HUI! I love the scent, I love the texture, I love the hydrating, moisturizing, and glow result, and this price is within reason for me ($76 for 90mL with a 35mL cream). I love the packaging; functional elegance is definitely my preferred packaging style. The little scarf for this special edition jumbo size is cute too. It does poke the few times I’ve grabbed it wrong, but it’s not pointy enough to really hurt, just a slight inconvenience. Thank you u/lonelyblep!

Bonus Non-AB Serum Review

 Trial size of the La Mer Revitalizing Hydrating Serum

In between having used up my sample sachets and waiting for my jumbo sized O HUI, a friend re-gifted me a La Mer sample set because she’s tried it before and it broke her sensitive skin out. And um…WHAT IS THIS NONSENSE?! Sure, it gave me the same expected glow and had a lovely milky serum texture. BUT IT SMELLED LIKE GLUE! And why is it $255 for 1oz?!?!?!? Moral of the story: stick with AB friends.

Packaging

 What's behind the pretty gold Whoo packaging (first picture of the post)

Little tidbit about what the packaging looks like behind all the shiny. I do love the gold container of the Whoo’s Hwanyu Signature Ampoule, but it’s not as hefty as you’d wish. Plus fingerprints. The feel of the purple containers is very lovely though, slightly matte, but same hallow-weight feeling as the gold Ampoule. The box self is nice, a little thick, but not too thick where you’d question why they thought it was necessary. But the gold fabric is just the end piece of a pretty gold satin(?) double sided tape connecting it to plastic cutouts. This is the gift set though, which are trial sizes. I’ve would think the full size of the Whoo Hwanyu line would be more luxe.

 

Packaging of the 90ml Prime Advancer Serum

Odile said that it was the favorite product for flight attendants so this large 90ml has a little handkerchief on it. I also think the little pull tab looks like you’re “on the go”, that has an actual purpose of pulling the product out like a little shelf handle.  

The box is a thick cardboard box and I love the style of the design. It’s simple, yet still elegant and unique (compared to other pricier serums that sometimes scream too much “elegance”. Like okay, you’re just a box. calm down). If anyone knows the art style, please let me know! My SO thinks Cubist? Or “one step further than Dadaism”. I have no idea, it just makes me happy. [Note: u/zzoom_zoom said cubism...But also combined with the recent minimalistic clean lines, shapes and colors.]

There was just a sheet of bubble wrap folded in half in there to protect the contents. It probably wasn’t all that necessary considering the products were in there decently snug and the box is pretty sturdy, but I thought it was a nice touch without being too wasteful.

The design on the inside matches the cover and I gotta say I love it way more than the fabric of Whoo’s, mainly because I feel like it isn’t trying to pretend to be something more than it is.

 

Surprise cotton pads inside the O Hui box

 
When I went to breakdown the box, there were two packs of cotton pads in there which was a surprise…and not sure why they’re in there🤷🏻‍♀️ But thank you for the gift? [Note: Odile said this is common with LG products - it's either cotton pads or packs of pocket tissues.]

 

Easily removable paper from the plastic of the O HUI box

 
I know I have an aspirational recycling mindset, but I appreciate that I can remove the paper from the plastic that does have the recycle triangle (but with Korean words). Whether the paper is actually big enough to be recycled and the plastic able to in the US is a different story. But I hope it can in SK at least.

The the actual box is currently being used to hold my stock of UZU lip treatments; it holds 9 perfectly!